Internal Views

Here are the internal organs of the RoadArk, with the how’s and why’s explained under each picture.

Inside the RoadArk

This overall shot of the internal components of the RoadArk, shows the underside of the countertop.  From left to right, you have the utensil drawer, the sink, the inverter, and the smaller orange unit, is the battery charger.  It’s only a 2 amp smart charger, so no fast charges here, but from what I’ve read, deep cycle batteries prefer slow charges, and I’m only charging one Optima AGM battery with it.

Right Underside of Countertop

A closer look at the right underside of the countertop.  The wires you see exiting at the rear, and just to the lower right of the orange battery charger, are the power cord for the battery charger, which can be pulled out as required, and the output from the battery charger, which is one of those sets of clips that are on the back of the RoadArk.  I didn’t want to hook the battery charger up permanently from inside.  I wanted the option of being able to choose which charging source to use, solar, alternator, or battery charger, and that’s why I set up the terminals on the outside rear of the RoadArk.

Also here, you can see the sprayer hose, and the white, cold water tap hose, which is coming up from the pump, and across to the tap.  The black and red cables behind the elbow for the cold water hose, are the inverter cables, going down into the battery box.

Center Underside of Countertop

In this picture of the underside of the sink, you can see the two hoses going to the hot and cold taps, one hose coming from the tankless water heater, on the back of the RoadArk, and one coming from the Surflo on-demand pump.  You can also see the sprayer hose.

You might wonder what that is on the end of the sink drain.  Well, this was a bit of an engineering challenge that I had to put a lot of thought into.  Given that the countertop raises up as it does, taking the sink with it, I had to come up with a way to ensure that the sink drain would function correctly when the countertop was down.  To do that, I put a short piece of bicycle inner tube on the end of the extremely short drain pipe, so that, as the drain came down on the hole in the grey water tank, the inner tube would just give way, and slip past the edge of the hole, and then pop back when it cleared the edge, so that there was no chance of the drain water splashing out inside the RoadArk.

The lighter coloured ring around the end of the drain pipe, is special washer that I made up from a half-inch thick sponge, and it seals around the hole in the grey water tank, so that any water in the tank will not get out, if I happen to be driving with water in it.  The sponge was perfect for this, since it swells up when wet, and provides an even better seal.

Drain Pipe

Here’s a closer look at the end of that drain pipe.

Left Underside of Countertop

The utensil drawer also mounts to the underside of the countertop, and slides on two pieces of 1/2″ x 1/2″ aluminum angle, which run the full length of the drawer.

The 20 lb. propane tank, which you can just see the top of there, was the limiting factor in the height of the RoadArk.  The top of that tank just kisses the underside of the countertop, when it’s closed, which is beneficial in keeping that tank from moving around.

Left Inside

It’s a bit hard to see from this photograph, but each component inside the RoadArk has its own compartment.  That propane tank is completely closed in, at least up to about 1 ft. high, and with the countertop being right on top of the tank when it’s closed, that tank is going nowhere.  There are also 2 screened 1 1/2″ diameter holes in the bottom of that compartment in case of propane leaks.

The fitting on top of the propane tank allows for a long accessory hose to go outside to either the propane stove on top of the countertop, or, it will even reach into the back of the truck, if I happen to need a small propane heater in there.  Also, you can see the propane regulator for the water heater on the same fitting.  All the propane fittings and connections, will, of course, have to be tested regularly by spraying a weak solution of dish soap and water on them to check for any escaping bubbles of propane.

The green tarp is  part of my daycamp setup, which I will explain on the daycamp page.  The cooler you see there, is not actually serving duty right now, except for the fact that all my pots and pans and enameled dishes etc. are in there.  It just seemed like a reasonable use for that space, and having a cooler available can’t hurt either.

Just to the right of the cooler, you can see the grey water tank.  It has a just over 5 gal. capacity.  It’s not hard to get it out at all, I just have to move the cooler.  There is a big plug attached to the handle of the grey water tank with a piece of cord.  You can’t see it in this picture, but it fits nice a tight into the hole in the grey water tank, so that I can take it out without any spillage.

Propane tank fitting closeup

Here’s a closer look at the propane tank fitting.

Grey Water tank

And a closer look at the grey water tank, with the plug in it.

Right inside view

Ok, so here we have the Shurflo pump, at the rear left, the battery compartment, at the rear right, and the two glass fresh water containers in the front.  I don’t like drinking out of plastic.  I don’t care what kind of plastic it is, plastic is plastic.  So, I opted for glass for my fresh water tanks.  However, the space that they sit in is exactly the correct size for a plastic fresh water tank the same as the one that I’m using for my grey water.  Both the glass containers, and the plastic containers, hold about 5 gallons.

You can see a tap, with a clear handle on it, between the two glass containers.  I can close that tap, so that when I hook up the optional incoming water line, from the back of the RoadArk, the water doesn’t flow into those glass containers, and overflow.

You’ll also notice that those hoses don’t have clamps on them.  This is because they are not pressure lines, they are suction lines, and they work just fine without having clamps on them.

The black cable you see on top of the battery compartment, is the cable to power the battery charger, and it can be pulled out, as required, without opening the RoadArk to get at it.

The pump is tucked away in its own little compartment, with a network of fittings coming in and out of it, to and from, the various sources and components its associated with.  When powered up, the system will keep pressure for a week without cycling the pump, so there are no leaks, but I still have a rocker switch on the outside front of the RoadArk, so that I can power down the pump when I don’t need it.

Pump closeup

Here’s a closer shot of the pump with its many connections.  I had to take this in and out a few times before I got all the connections right, with no leaks under pressure.  The pump is rubber mounted, and runs very quiet.  By the way, that screw, right in the middle, on the very top of the pump, is to adjust the water pressure.

There’s a screened hole in the bottom of this compartment also, just in case of leaks.

Another angle

Here’s the interior from another angle.

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